Building a metal stud partition

The steps, in order

1. Set out floor and ceiling

   Mark the line on the floor, then transfer it to the ceiling with a cross line laser or a plumb bob. A partition that is out of plumb shows at every door and every cupboard set against it.

   Tools: cross line laser, chalk line, tape measure

2. Fix the track

   Track goes on the floor and ceiling, over an acoustic strip if the wall has to cut noise. Into concrete, hammer-fix plugs or concrete screws in holes drilled with a rotary hammer; into timber, screw straight in.

   Tools: SDS-Plus rotary hammer, drill driver, tin snips

3. Stand the studs

   Studs slot into the track at the centres the system maker specifies, 600 mm in the usual case. Strengthen door openings, and add noggins or backing now wherever a heavy cabinet will hang. The partition calculator gives the number of studs, track lengths and boards for your length and height.

   Tools: snips, crimper or drill driver, spirit level

4. Cables and insulation

   Cables run through the holes in the studs before any board goes on. Then fit mineral wool between the studs: it does most of the work of a partition's sound insulation.

   Tools: utility knife, insulation knife

5. Screw the boards

   Boards run vertically, with joints staggered from one side to the other. Each screw should sit just below the paper without tearing it: a screwdriver with a depth stop does that without thinking. On a ceiling, a board lifter replaces a second pair of hands.

   Tools: drywall screwdriver or drill with depth stop, board lifter, utility knife, board rasp

6. Tape and joint

   A first coat of compound with the paper tape bedded into it, then one or two wider finishing coats, drying between each. A light sand finishes the job before paint.

   Tools: jointing knives, hawk, long-reach sander

Consumables

• Plasterboard, moisture-resistant in wet rooms.
• Track and studs of matching width, plus furring channel where needed.
• Drywall screws long enough for the board thickness.
• Mineral wool for sound insulation.
• Paper tape and jointing compound.
• Acoustic strip under the track, if the wall has to cut noise.

Safety on this job

• Isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before touching existing wiring, and test that it is dead.
• Mineral wool: gloves, long sleeves and a mask when cutting.
• Sanding compound: a mask against fine dust, and extraction if you can.
• Heavy boards: two people to carry them, and a board lifter on ceilings rather than improvised props.